EuroMegavacation Episode 1: Belgium

Matt gazing up into the dome of the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula in Brussels.

Our trip to Europe in May was, well, perfect.  For real:  Perfect!  Matt did SO GOOD planning it.  Things fell into place along the way.  The weather was beyond cooperative.  My dreams came true--and then some!

Old architecture and new architecture sit side by side in Brussels.

Forests.  Castles.  Old friends.  Trains.  Sunshine.  Palaces.  History.  Birds.  Cycling.  Sauna.  Vineyards.  Pretzels.  Architecture.  I kept having to pinch myself.  It was even better than I dared to hope it would be.  

Gold-trimmed buildings on the Grand Place in Brussels.

The weather was unseasonably glorious.  The people were amazing.  The food was delicious--and vegan food was easy to come by.  Train travel worked super slick.  I was giddy being surrounded by the French and German languages.  The places we expected to be packed with tourists (like ourselves) weren't crowded at all.  There was so much unbelievable beauty that my eyeballs didn't know how to absorb it.  It was surreal.  It was magical.

Courtyard off the Grand Place in Brussels.

We flew from Montana to Colorado to DC to Brussels, Belgium.  It wasn't so bad.  We managed a little sleep on the long night flight over the ocean to get ahead of the jet lag.  We landed in Belgium around 10am, cleared customs, and jumped on the train to the city center.  This was Matt's very first train ride.  He was immediately impressed.  It was also the first time Matt had been outside of the USA.  Once again, he was immediately impressed.  

Matt's very first train ride!

We got off the train, strapped on our backpacks, and set off for our hotel.  Our walking route even took us through the Grand Place.  This made us all the more eager to ditch our bags and come back to soak it all in.  We checked into the apartment we'd reserved at the Citadines Sainte-Catherine, and then we started checking things off our vacation dream list.  

Our first view of the Grand Place while walking from the train station to the hotel in Brussels.

Though widely disputed, Belgium takes credit for creating French Fries.  So that was basically the first order of business.  We bought a cornet (paper cone) of pommes frites (French Fries) and ate them sitting in the shade on the Grand Place.  It was 80 degrees out!  The buildings on the Grand Place were a lovely introduction to the detail and beauty of European architecture.  So much gold trim and decorative flourishes!  The fries were truly exceptional.  They're double-fried and stay crisp and delicious all the way to the bottom of the cornet.  No soggy fries allowed!  The friteries (fry shops) have these huge troughs of fries!  Mmmmmm...golden goodness there, too.

Eating Frittes on the Grand Place in Brussels.

Then it was time to move on to the second order of business:  Belgian Beer!  We got a little patio table at one of the restaurants on the Grand Place and sampled a couple.  We enjoyed the people watching and had our first exposure to the prevalence of smoking in Europe.  What can I say?  I've gotten used to smokers not really being around.  They've been pushed to the fringes in America.  Most of my friends and I have quit by now.  Not so in Belgium (Germany, and Austria)!  The smokers are still right there at the table next to you, whether it is a beer garden or a restaurant patio.  Any place outdoors still seemed fair game.  This didn't bother me whatsoever, but I did find it a surprising, almost nostalgic throwback.  Same for the prevalent self-serv cigarette vending machines.

Enjoying a beer and looking over the guidebook on the Grand Place in Brussels.

Matt used Rick Steves' Belgium guidebook to direct us on a walk through town.  We visited our first of what would become many, many beautiful European churches--L'Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste au Béguinage.  We stopped for a peek at the Manikin Pis fountain.  This little boy is a Brussels landmark and has been whizzing since at least the 17th century.  I can remember visiting it in 2002 when I was in Belgium for the first time.  We also stumbled on its modern counterpart, the Jeanette Pis. We enjoyed the narrow streets and cobblestones immensely.  

Interior of the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula in Brussels.

We strolled under the glass roof at the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert.  We made a wish while touching the monument to Everard t'Serclaes, one of Brussels' most famous historical residents.  This is another thing I can remember doing on my trip to Brussels with Marjorie and her family in 2002.  We took in the beautiful Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula.  We started Rick Steves' Upper Town Walk, but...honestly...we were tired and it was so hot and uphill...so we bailed on that idea pretty quickly.  We basked in the shade, fountains, and statues in the Parc de Bruxelles instead.  We picked up a few things at a cute little co-op grocery store.  I was reminded just how rusty my college French had gotten!

Matt and the Manneken Pis in Brussels.

We had the Korean corndogs at Katsune Burgers for dinner.  Our tummies were a little unhappy because of the chaos of international travel, but we thought a corndog would be just right.  These corndogs have an extra crunchy panko breading and are topped with mustard, ketchup, and green onions.  We got a laugh when we placed our order.  The server wanted to verify:  "You do know they are vegan corndogs, correct?"  We assured her that was exactly why we had come!  After stuffing our faces, we returned to the hotel and crashed super hard into bed.  What a loooooooooong day (two days?) of travel and touristing!

 The monument to Everard t'Serclaes in Brussels.

The next morning, we packed up, drank some coffee, and took the train to Namur, where Marjorie was waiting for us.  Marj was an exchange student who lived with me and my mom during my junior year of high school (2001-2002).  We loved having her stay with us.  It was such a cool experience.  My mom and I flew to LA to reconnect with Marj in 2017.  That was a great experience, too.  Felt just like ol' times.  So, I was really excited to spend some more time with her during our Europe Megavaction.  It was the first time Matt met Marj, and the first time we would meet Marj's boyfriend, Phil.  They generously invited us to stay at Phil's house in the country in southern Belgium.  

Marjorie feeding the fish at the pond in Phil's garden.

Marj collected us from the train station and took us to the town square in Namur for a drink.  Afterwards, we hopped in her car for the hour drive to Phil's house.  I pointed out some landmarks from my previous visit--the citadel, the street where Marjorie's parents live.  Marj is disappointed in the quality of her English, but Matt and I were still very impressed.   We gave each other family updates, talked about work, and recounted stories from our days together in Montana.  Marj told us a bit about Phil and her plans to move in with him soon.  The drive flew by.

Marj and me enjoying a poolside gin and tonic in the sunshine.

We got a quick tour of the house and then spent the afternoon lounging by the swimming pool.  The weather was so wonderful.  Marjorie emphasized that we were quite lucky on this count.   The spring weather in Belgium sounds as fickle and variable as it is in Montana.  A few days after our visit, Marj sent me a video of snow falling on the pool!  We were very lucky indeed!

I was a big fan of these floating beanbag pool loungers.

Phil joined us at the pool for a while after he got home from golfing.  He had some questions about American politics.  We talked about travels, past and future.  We shared more stories from when Marjorie lived with me.  Marj facilitated the conversation since Matt and I were worthless at French and Phil's English was very limited.  Matt was especially impressed with Marj's linguistic prowess.  He called her a wizard, seeing the way she switched back and forth between French and English and kept us all together as nothing short of magic.

Phil's house is also a mix of old and new architecture.  It was a "ruin" when he bought it, but he has restored and modernized it considerably.  It was a very nice place.

Eventually, we got out of our swimsuits to make a trip to the grocery store for dinner supplies--veggies, sausages, kebabs, and fresh bread.  Marj and Phil helped select a variety of local beers for us to try.  There was a chocolate counter in the grocery store.  We were able to choose from an impressive variety of vegan chocolates--at an even more impressively affordable price.  We never did get around to having a Belgian waffle, but consoled ourselves with the Belgian chocolate!

Phil taking charge at the barbecue.

Back at the house, Phil and Marj put together a super barbecue for us.  I'd never seen a cast-iron wood-fired barbecue like Phil used to prepare our dinner.  Marjorie set a casual table, and we ate on the patio.  It was all very tasty and wonderful.  At our request, they taught us to play a new game--Pétanque--after dinner.  Matt was especially eager to play.  It had a similarity to bocce, which Matt loves.  The match was "boys versus girls," and while the boys did win...the girls didn't do too shabby!  It was quite fun, but we only had time for one game before the twilight settled.  We saw Pétanque being played in parks all over Germany and Austria over the next couple of weeks.

The big Pétanque match. 

Phil built us a little fire on the patio.  We sat around telling stories and catching up.  Marj said her brain got tired from all the translating!  We sampled all the beers.  Phil gave Matt and me a tour of his wine cellar.  The stars came out.  It was lovely.  

Matt looks like he's in the middle of quite a lively story!

After a much-needed night of sleep, we had a mellow morning kicking around the house and garden.  Marj made me coffee.  Phil went out to pick up some fresh pastry.  Matt slept in.  Marjorie gave me some lotions and creams from the cosmetic line that she sells.  While Marjorie got ready for work, I wandered the property looking at the birds, flowers, and fish.  Springtime was in bloom!  I saw my first European Goldfinch and several Blue Tits.  Red Kites (called Milan Royal in French) soared overhead almost continuously.  The Carrion Crows cackled from the trees near the pond.  

The pond in the garden.

Phil and Marj drove us back to the train station in Namur.  It was a short but sweet time with them.  I am very grateful for it!  We said our farewells and boarded the train bound for Cologne, Germany.  The train reached speeds up to 160 mph!  What a way to travel! 

Eating Belgian chocolates on the train from Namur to Cologne.